What are natural dyes?
Prior to the mid-19th century invention of synthetic dyes, natural dyes were the only game in town. Natural dyes are color extracts from plant, fungi, or animal sources. Many, but not all, natural dyes need a little chemistry help to “fix” the color to the fabric. Metal salts, and other substances like plant tannins, are used as a mordant (fixative) promoting long lasting color, washability and lightfastness. Botanical prints (ecoprints) also often use mordants and tannins, but the “dyestuff”—like flowers, berries and leaves— is applied directly to the fabric instead of an extracted powder or liquid.
Why use natural dyes? There are several great reasons to use natural dyes.
They create stunning colors.
There’s something magical about uncovering the hidden colors produced by the plants around us. Would you have guessed that avocado skins and pits produce gorgeous pinks? Each carefully unrolled ecoprint bundle reveals a totally unique imprint of the leaves and flowers it was boiled or steamed with. Applied to suitable fabrics and with proper mordanting, these dyes are beautiful and permanent, with good color and lightfastness.
They’re made with cleaner chemistry.
While cleaner chemistry certifications for the fashion industry like bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 are creating better options for companies, hazardous and carcinogenic chemicals (harmful to workers and planet) are still used in the processing of much of the world’s fossil fuel-derived synthetic dyes. It’s important to note that there are a few mordants that can be used with natural dyes that are also considered toxic and environmentally hazardous like tin and lead. We never use these, instead opting to let the beauty of plants show through naturally cleaner chemistry.
They enhance compostability as an end-of-life option for garments.
Because natural dyes are free of fossil fuels and hazardous chemicals, they can be composted when applied to natural fibers like cotton, linen, silk and wool. However compostability relies not just on the technical capabilities of a garment, but the availability of reliable systems. At least in the US, municipal systems aren’t there yet but there’s hope for the future of compostability. This article from Ecocult offers additional composting information.
Are natural dyes sustainable?
They can be! The honest answer to any question about sustainability and responsibility is that it’s complicated. Natural dyes can come from regenerative sources, manage water resources well, and support local communities in traditional textile industries or… not. Natural dyes that come from environmentally irresponsible agriculture full of fossil fuel-based pesticides, use tons of water and don’t consider people alongside profit, are of course unsustainable. So, the answer is that it depends. It depends on responsible sourcing and responsible consumption. Since every action creates impact, we cannot shop our way out of climate change. But we can make better choices for people and planet when we do shop.
